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Perang Pandan Tenganan: The Wars without Hatred

AR
Atha Rafif
10 min read
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Key Takeaways:

  • Perang Pandan, or Mekare-kare, is a sacred combat ritual in Tenganan Village, East Bali, honoring Lord Indra. Young men duel with thorny pandan leaves as a rite of passage into manhood.

  • Despite its fierce appearance, the ritual symbolizes gratitude, unity, and brotherhood. Bloodshed is seen as an offering to the gods, and participants embrace after each duel in mutual respect.

  • The annual event during Usaba Sambah strengthens social bonds and draws global visitors, sustaining Tenganan’s identity and local economy through authentic cultural tourism.

  • Facing modern pressures, the community safeguards the ritual through youth involvement, education, and festivals—ensuring this centuries-old tradition endures for future generations.

Known by various names such as Mekare-kare or Mageret Pandan, Perang Pandan Tenganan is a captivating and unique ritualistic combat tradition that stands as a testament to Bali's rich cultural heritage.

Far from a battle fueled by animosity, this event is a sacred ceremony, a significant coming-of-age ritual, and a vibrant cultural festival that draws onlookers into its primal allure. The core of this traditional Balinese war involves bare-chested male participants engaging in duels using bundles of thorny pandan leaves and rattan shields.

Perang Pandan in a Glance

This extraordinary tradition is exclusively practiced in Tenganan Pegringsingan, an ancient Bali Aga village nestled in the Manggis district of Karangasem Regency, East Bali, Indonesia. Located approximately 65 km from the bustling capital of Denpasar, Tenganan offers an authentic glimpse into an older, more secluded Balinese way of life.

For those exploring Bali, visiting this village provides a stark contrast to the more commercialized areas (read our comprehensive travel guide to Bali).

The historical significance of this tradition is deeply embedded in Hindu mythology. It commemorates a legendary battle where Lord Indra, the revered Hindu God of War, triumphed over the tyrannical King Maya Denawa. For the Bali Aga people of Tenganan, the Tenganan village rituals of Perang Pandan are a profound way to honor Indra, their supreme deity, and to show respect to their ancestors. Crucially, it also functions as a vital rite of passage, initiating young men into manhood within the community.

Perang Pandan Tenganan is an annual event, serving as the dramatic climax of the month-long Usaba Sambah (or Sasih Sembah) ceremony.

This extensive festival typically occurs in the fifth month (Sasih Kelima) of the Balinese calendar, usually falling around June or July. The actual pandan fights usually span two days, often recurring two to four times within the broader month-long festival, with each combat session lasting approximately three hours.

Visitors looking for authentic cultural festivals in Bali should mark their calendars for this compelling display (find more on Bali events).

Cultural and Spiritual Meaning of the War

blog-picture Source: pesonaindo.com

At its heart, the perang pandan meaning transcends mere combat. For the Tenganan community, it profoundly symbolizes bravery, unity, and an unwavering connection to their ancestral heritage and intrinsic Hindu beliefs. It acts as a powerful expression of gratitude to God for a harmonious life, fertile land, and abundant food, simultaneously representing the unwavering strength of Tenganan men in defending their customary village.

Despite the raw physicality and superficial injuries, the ritual is famously dubbed "The Wars without Hatred." This moniker highlights the remarkable spirit in which it is performed: entirely devoid of animosity or malice.

Participants, though engaged in fierce duels, reportedly show no pain and embrace warmly after each round, emphasizing mutual respect, camaraderie, unity, and brotherhood. The intent is purely ceremonial and spiritual, never violent.

The ritual serves as a profound reflection of Balinese Hindu beliefs, particularly in its role as a tribute and offering to Dewa Indra.

The Tenganan community venerates Indra as their supreme deity, and the blood shed during the ritual is considered a sacred offering, intended to appease the gods and ensure prosperity.

This practice embodies core socio-cultural values such as gratitude to God, togetherness, and yadnya (offerings), aligning perfectly with the overarching Tri Hita Karana philosophy that permeates Balinese life.

blog-picture Source: jnewsonline.com

Central to the ceremony are the thorny pandan leaves (Pandanus amaryllifolius). Bundled into clubs typically measuring 15-30 cm long, these formidable leaves are the primary "weapons." Used to strike opponents, they cause scratches and draw blood, which, as mentioned, is considered a sacred offering. Beyond their practical use, the pandan leaves also symbolize self-control and the raw, primal energy inherent in the combat.

Aspect/CategoryDetail/CharacteristicValue/Frequency/ParticipantsSignificance/Impact
Event NamePerang Pandan (Mekare-kare, Mageret Pandan)Ritualistic combat, sacred ceremony, coming-of-age ritual, cultural festival
LocationTenganan Pegringsingan, Manggis district, Karangasem Regency, East Bali, IndonesiaApprox. 65 km from DenpasarExclusively practiced in an ancient Bali Aga village.
Historical RootHindu mythologyCommemorates Lord Indra defeating King Maya DenawaHonors Indra (supreme deity) and ancestors; rite of passage for young men.
FrequencyAnnual eventClimax of month-long Usaba Sambah (Sasih Sembah) ceremonyOccurs in the 5th month of Balinese calendar (approx. June/July).
Fight DurationPer festival: 2 days (often 2-4 times within the month)Approx. 3 hours each time (1-7 minutes per round per pair)Highlights the intensity and ceremonial nature of the combat.
ParticipantsBare-chested Tenganan malesCompulsory for ages 7 onwards to adult menRite of passage into manhood; training for future village leaders.
Primary WeaponBundles of thorny Pandan leaves (Pandanus amaryllifolius)15-30 cm longCauses scratches and draws blood, considered a sacred offering; symbolizes self-control.
Defense EquipmentRound shieldsMade of woven rattan or ata leavesProtection during duels.
Post-Combat ActionsEmbrace opponents, share communal mealsKnown as megibungEmphasizes mutual respect, camaraderie, unity, and brotherhood; "Wars without Hatred."
Safety MeasuresTraditional herbal medicine ("boreh kare")Ingredients: turmeric, galangal, arrack, vinegarApplied immediately to cleanse and heal wounds; holy water also sprinkled.
Prohibited ActionsStriking the neck or faceStrict rule during combatEnsures safety and maintains the ritual's ceremonial intent.

The Ritual and Rules of Perang Pandan

blog-picture Source: sky-adventure.com

The execution of Perang Pandan Tenganan is highly ritualized. Participants, often bare-chested to emphasize their vulnerability and dedication, duel one-on-one within a designated arena. Each fighter wields a bundle of thorny pandan leaves in one hand for offense and a round shield made of woven rattan or ata leaves in the other for defense.

A designated referee meticulously oversees each match, ensuring adherence to the strict, albeit unwritten, rules. Fights are intentionally brief, typically lasting between one and seven minutes per round, with pairs of combatants rotating continuously.

The intense clashes are underscored by the hypnotic, rhythmic music of the gamelan selonding, an ancient Balinese musical ensemble unique to this context.

Following the combat, the participants, injuries notwithstanding, embrace and partake in communal meals known as megibung, further solidifying their bonds.

Despite the inherent potential for injury, specific safety measures are integral to the Tenganan village rituals. While superficial wounds from the pandan thorns are common and expected, striking the neck or face is strictly prohibited.

Immediately after the fights, scratches and injuries are treated with a traditional herbal medicine known as "boreh kare." This potent mixture, comprising ingredients like turmeric, galangal, arrack, and vinegar, is applied to cleanse and promote healing of the wounds.

Additionally, holy water is sprinkled on the fighters, adding a spiritual dimension to the healing process.

Participation in the Perang Pandan is compulsory for Tenganan males, ranging from children as young as seven to adult men. This ensures the continuity of the tradition, serving as a pivotal rite of passage into manhood and crucial training for future village leaders.

Impact on the Community and Tourism

The traditional Balinese war of Perang Pandan profoundly affects the social cohesion within Tenganan. The ritual acts as a powerful reinforcing mechanism for unity, cooperation, and shared identity among villagers.

Through shared participation, mutual respect, and the communal feasting (megibung) that follows the ritual, social bonds are strengthened, and communal responsibilities are reinforced. It is a powerful expression of their unique cultural identity and heritage.

Beyond its intrinsic community value, the festival plays a significant role in promoting cultural tourism. Perang Pandan Tenganan is a major draw, attracting thousands of domestic and international tourists annually and firmly establishing Tenganan as a prominent cultural and ecotourism destination.

The Karangasem Regency government actively promotes the Tenganan Culture Festival, which prominently features the Pandan War, to boost tourism and offer visitors an authentic, unfiltered glimpse into the rich Bali Aga culture.

Both locals and visitors hold distinct perceptions of the event. Locals view it as a sacred and indispensable tradition—a deep expression of their identity, gratitude, and an essential rite of passage.

Visitors, on the other hand, are captivated by the unique spectacle, its historical depth, and the rare cultural authenticity it offers, often expressing profound appreciation for the "Wars without Hatred" philosophy that underpins the raw combat.

The influx of tourists generates significant economic benefits for the village. It creates various job opportunities within the tourism service sector, including food and beverage sales, accommodation provision, and local tour guiding.

Additionally, it boosts sales for local craftspeople, particularly those renowned for weaving the exquisite Geringsing cloth. This economic uplift directly contributes to villagers' income and supports local Micro, Small, and Medium Enterprises (UMKM).

Preserving the Tradition in Modern Times

Despite its enduring cultural significance, Perang Pandan Tenganan faces several challenges in the modern era. The primary hurdle is maintaining its sacredness and authenticity amidst increasing external interest from tourism and the pervasive forces of modernization.

There is a delicate balance to strike between cultural preservation and potential commercialization that could dilute the ritual's spiritual essence.

Furthermore, the lack of a strong legal framework for tradition preservation can sometimes pose issues related to the formal status and responsibilities associated with safeguarding such a unique heritage.

To counter these challenges, local authorities and communities are actively engaged in preservation efforts. The Tenganan community meticulously preserves the tradition through traditional education, actively involving youngsters in metruna nyoman activities, and ensuring consistent performance of the ceremonies. They also foster a strong sense of cultural pride, encourage youth participation, and have established a cultural museum to safeguard their heritage.

The Karangasem Regency government lends its support by organizing the Tenganan Culture Festival and advocating for responsible tourism practices.

Crucially, this tradition is inherently designed for future generations. Participation in the Tenganan village rituals is compulsory for young males, serving as a continuous rite of passage. Youth (daha and truna) are actively involved in preparatory ceremonies, where they learn and internalize vital socio-cultural values.

Competitions are even held to encourage and unearth youth creativity within the framework of traditional practices. The core principle of Perang Pandan involves passing down these practices through continuous engagement, education, and active participation.

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Perang Pandan Tenganan: The Wars without Hatred