Ten years ago, on the eve of Nyepi, I strolled on Kuta Beach amid a buzzing atmosphere. That was the moment I caught my first glimpse of an Ogoh-ogoh – towering, aggressive, and almost otherworldly in the darkness above.
I recall halting suddenly, torn between amazement and inquisitiveness. The shape appeared vibrant with energy, almost like it was on the brink of awakening.
I didn’t completely grasp the significance then, but the island’s festival preparations evoked a sense of witnessing something ancient and potent.
That moment has always stuck with me, leading me to desire sharing the story behind these amazing creations.
What is Ogoh-ogoh?
That night, I remember a giant figure of Rahwana, the demon king from the Ramayana, appearing before me, engaged in a fierce fight with a Garuda-like bird named Jatayu, almost like it was happening right in front of me.
Every detail of their physique and intense battle was accurately portrayed in the statues, making them appear extremely realistic. Rahwana’s fierce face contorted grotesquely as Jatayu prepared to attack with wings outstretched.
So, what is an Ogoh-ogoh?
It’s a huge sculpture you’ll encounter on the streets leading up to the Nyepi celebration.
Ogoh-ogoh are large, handmade sculptures typically constructed from bamboo, polyfoam, and paper that frequently represent deities, monsters, or legendary beasts.
Initially, I believed that these figures were simply a component of a vibrant festival presentation. However, I later discovered that Ogoh-ogoh is far beyond just that.
They are created in advance of Nyepi, Bali’s ceremonial “Day of Silence,” an important of Balinese Hindu custom. The Ogoh-ogoh is representative of bad energy or malevolent entities that must be expelled.
The procession of the figures through the streets, accompanied by much celebration, brings a form of spiritual purification to the island.
Following the procession, the Ogoh-ogoh figures are burned, signifying the elimination of the negative energies they depict.
Initially, I didn’t grasp the strong connection these creations have to Bali’s cultural and spiritual essence.
Every Ogoh-ogoh symbolises a deeper message, such as the intense conflict between Rahwana and Jatayu, symbolising the ongoing struggle between good and evil. When I witnessed the battle before me, I couldn’t ignore the gravity of the situation, understanding that for the Balinese people, this event signifies letting go of negative energies to balance the universe once again.
The Origins of Ogoh-ogoh
I was amazed to find out the long history of the Ogoh-ogoh tradition when I first asked about its origins. The Balinese term “Ogoh-ogoh” comes from the word “ogah-ogah” which means “something that can be shaken.”1
That made sense to me as I remembered how the figures moved and trembled during the parade, as if they were living beings.
However, this tradition did not originate with the prominent individuals we observe currently.
Originating from Bali’s pre-Hindu period, it has strong connections to ancient purification ceremonies known as Mecaru. In the past, individuals would create basic straw dolls and leaf figures to represent Bhuta Kala, which are the harmful forces or malevolent beings that disrupt the equilibrium of the universe.
These were set on fire in a ceremony to purify the soil and bring back balance.
With time, these modest figures developed. Instead of straw and leaves, bamboo frames were used, and now, polyfoam, styrofoam, and fibreglass are used to create the intricate, towering sculptures we see today.
The tradition of Ogoh-ogoh, which is closely related to the Ngrupuk ceremony before Nyepi, was only introduced in the 1980s.
Its popularity surged quickly, particularly following its presentation at the 12th Bali Arts Festival, where the intricate creativity and skill of the figures drew in all spectators.
It is intriguing how Ogoh-ogoh have expanded beyond their initial spiritual function.
Although they continue to represent Bhuta Kala and are burnt for dispelling negativity, contemporary Ogoh-ogoh also mirror present-day circumstances.
Some figures are utilised to convey viewpoints on social or political matters, transforming the procession into a platform for more profound discussions.
Acquiring this knowledge made me develop a fresh admiration for the Ogoh-ogoh I had witnessed. It goes beyond being just an art form or a festival, it is a tradition that is alive and constantly changing, bridging Bali’s past and present, preserving the island’s culture and beliefs in a beautiful and meaningful way.
The Pengrupukan Parade at Kuta
If you’re lucky enough to be in Bali on the night before Nyepi, Kuta Beach is one of the best places to experience the Ngrupuk ceremony.
That’s exactly where I found myself during my first Ogoh-ogoh parade, and it was nothing short of unforgettable.
The day itself feels like a build-up to the evening’s excitement.
Road Closing
By noon, the roads leading to Kuta Beach are closed to traffic, turning the area into a pedestrian-only zone. It’s like the whole town is holding its breath, waiting for the night to come alive.
I remember strolling through the peaceful streets earlier in the day, noticing the Ogoh-ogoh sculptures stationed at different Banjar halls, standing tall and prepared for their big debut.
You can start to take some pictures of these giants before their show begins. I suggest you stroll around Legian road.
Showtime
The event starts officially at about 6 or 7 pm, with the sunset and cooler air. Gradually, a crowd starts to gather in the streets, with both locals and tourists eagerly anticipating the parade.
Every Banjar showcases a unique Ogoh-ogoh, each one a work of art. Certain creatures appear ferocious and intimidating, sporting protruding eyes and sharp teeth, while others exude a more whimsical vibe by combining ancient myths with contemporary innovation.
The Kuta procession stands out due to the energy it brings. The Ogoh-ogoh are not only displayed—they are enacted.
Groups of young males raise the large statues on bamboo structures, lifting and swaying them to the beat of traditional Balinese gamelan music.
A few Ogoh-ogoh twirl frantically, appearing to mimic a fight, whereas others move with a threatening elegance.
Take Focus, but Keep Cautious
As I watched, I made sure to keep my camera ready. The performances are so dynamic that every second feels like a new story unfolding.
A word of advice—watch your belongings. With hundreds, sometimes thousands, of people crowding the area, it’s easy to get swept up in the excitement and forget your bag or phone.
By the end of the night, as the Ogoh-ogoh are burned or set aside, you can’t help but feel the shift in the air, as if the island itself has let go of its troubles and is ready to start fresh.
If you ever get the chance to be in Kuta for Ngrupuk, don’t miss it. It’s Bali at its most vibrant and alive.
Where to Stay?
Following a night filled with the excitement of the Ogoh-ogoh procession, there is no greater pleasure than escaping to a serene, opulent villa to unwind and bask in the activities.
I recommend booking one of these lovely villas as your retreat before witnessing the Ogoh-ogoh parade in Kuta and celebrating Nyepi day!
If you plan to stay in Seminyak, you will be near lively nightlife, amazing dining options, and a quick distance from Kuta Beach. I suggest you look at these two villas managed by The Tropical Door.
Villa Vaya
This 3-bedroom villa is perfect for groups of up to six people. Their tropical, minimalist design makes you feel right at home, while the fully-serviced amenities mean you don’t have to lift a finger. Plus, being close to the beach and all the top spots in Seminyak is a huge bonus.
BullHouse Villa
If you’re travelling with a larger group, BullHouse Villa is unbeatable. With six bedrooms and space for up to 12 guests (or even 20 if you’re hosting a big gathering), it’s ideal for family getaways or celebrations with friends.
The 15-metre-long swimming pool is the highlight here—imagine spending your day lounging by the crystal-clear water after a night out exploring.
For something quieter but just as accessible, I’d recommend staying in Umalas. It’s a peaceful area nestled between Seminyak and Berawa, giving you the best of both worlds.
Villa Kanopi
This 3-bedroom villa feels like a hidden gem. It’s only a 7-minute drive from the beach, but once you’re there, you’ll feel a world away from the bustle. The private pool, surrounded by lush tropical gardens, is like your own slice of paradise.
I especially loved the large glass windows and doors that can be opened wide to let the breeze flow through—it’s the kind of place where you instantly feel at ease.
Whether you prefer the lively energy of Seminyak or the serene vibe of Umalas, there’s a villa to match your style. After experiencing the excitement of Bali’s cultural festivals, these spots are the perfect retreat to unwind and reflect on everything you’ve seen.
The Bottom Line
Experiencing Bali’s Ogoh-ogoh ritual goes beyond observing a procession; it involves engaging in a cultural voyage that connects the island’s history and contemporary life.
From the impressive skill shown in the sculptures to the collective spirit of the Pengrupukan ritual, it’s an event that will stay with you.
Including a stay at one of Bali’s beautiful villas will provide you with the ideal combination of adventure and relaxation.
Whether you’re interested in culture or seeking a special experience, witnessing Bali’s Ogoh-ogoh tradition is essential to connect with the island’s essence.
- Bagian Protokol dan Komunikasi Kepemimpinan, P. (2018, February 27). Pengertian Ogoh-Ogoh Dan Fungsinya. Beranda Bagian Protokol dan Komunikasi Pimpinan. Retrieved November 21, 2024, from https://prokomsetda.bulelengkab.go.id/informasi/detail/artikel/pengertian-ogoh-ogoh-dan-fungsinya-97 ↩︎
