On the shores of Bali's volcanic Lake Batur, across the water from an active volcano, lies a village where the dead are not buried or burned.

Instead, they are laid to rest under the open sky, their bodies protected by simple bamboo cages, their scent mysteriously absorbed by a single, ancient, fragrant tree.

Welcome to Trunyan, the last bastion of Bali's indigenous people and their unique connection to life, death, and nature.

What and Where is Trunyan Village?

Trunyan Village is a traditional community located on the remote eastern shore of Lake Batur in the Kintamani highlands of Bali. It is home to the Bali Aga, or "original Balinese," whose culture predates the 14th-century Hindu-Majapahit empire that influenced most of the island. This makes their traditions profoundly different from the common Balinese Hinduism practiced elsewhere.

Uniquely defined by its geography, the village is nestled at the foot of Mount Abang and is accessible almost exclusively by a short boat ride from towns like Kedisan or Toya Bungkah. This very isolation has been the key to preserving its ancient customs and animistic beliefs, setting it apart from other classic Balinese landmarks.

Trunyan cemetery

The village is most famous for its unique cemetery where the deceased are placed on the ground in bamboo cages (ancak saji) under a large, sacred tree known as the Taru Menyan.

This practice is reserved only for married villagers who died a natural death. Different burial sites are used for those who were unmarried or died of unnatural causes.

The Bali Aga culture here also includes other unique rituals, such as the sacred and seldom-seen Barong Brutuk dance, an exorcism performance that starkly contrasts with the more widely known Barong dance.

Another important aspect of Trunyan life is its emphasis on prestige and lavish ceremonies. Major events like weddings are expected to be extravagant, and many families postpone these ceremonies due to the high costs involved, despite having children already. This focus on ceremonial grandeur is similar to other Balinese customs, yet Trunyan’s unique isolation and economy, which is based on small-scale agriculture, makes it challenging to accumulate the wealth needed for such events.

The Myth of Trunyan Village

Trunyan sacred tree

The village's origin story is as mystical as its burial customs. Legend says the giant "Taru Menyan" tree emitted a fragrance so powerful it drifted as far as the island of Java. Enticed by the scent, four children of a Javanese king from Solo traveled to Bali to find its source.

The eldest prince journeyed the farthest, finally discovering the tree. There, he met and fell in love with a local goddess. He agreed to become the leader of her people to marry her, taking the title Ratu Sakti Pancering Jagat (The Powerful King that Anchors the World), while she became the protector of the lake.

To prevent the tree's powerful scent from attracting more outsiders and potential invaders, the new king decreed that the dead should be laid out on the ground beneath it. He believed the odor of decomposition would mix with and neutralize the tree's fragrance, cloaking the village from the outside world. This myth provides the divine origin for the Mepasah, an open-air burial rite and anchors the community's spiritual identity.

Trunyan’s cultural and historical significance extends far beyond its funeral practices. The village dates back to at least the 10th century AD, according to copperplate inscriptions found in the village’s main temple. The temple, dedicated to Bhatara da Tonta, has roots in the 833 saka (10th century AD). However, evidence of much older human activity has been discovered in Trunyan, with lithic tools indicating the presence of a hunter-gatherer society long before the establishment of the temple.

The Trunyanese society is divided into two main castes, banjar jero and banjar jaba, tracing their lineage to the Gelgel dynasty. The banjar jero consists of descendants of those appointed by the kings of Gelgel to rule, while the banjar jaba are descendants of those ruled by the banjar jero.

Despite the village’s isolation, these influences, along with the requirement for young men to spend time in lowland Bali as beggars—similar to Buddhist monks—show how outside customs have filtered into Trunyan’s deeply rooted traditions.

Where to Stay?

While Trunyan Village remains a strictly traditional settlement with no commercial hotels, most travelers find that the best way to experience the highlands is by staying in Ubud. Located just a scenic 2-hours drive from Ubud, allows you to balance the rugged, ancient energy of the Bali Aga with world-class comfort.

The Tropical Door offers an exclusive collection of designer villas in the heart of the Ubud region. After a day spent navigating volcanic waters and ancient cemeteries, retreating to a private sanctuary is the ultimate way to decompress.

• Villa Rosita: A masterpiece of 5-bedroom tropical elegance. If you’re traveling with family or a group, this villa provides the perfect open-plan living space to gather and discuss your day’s discoveries.

• Villa Sandro: This 3-bedroom villa blends modern architecture with lush jungle views. It’s an ideal choice for those who want to stay connected to nature without sacrificing high-end amenities.

• Villa Xanadu: The epitome of a hidden gem. With its stunning pool and intimate atmosphere, this 5-bedroom serves as a peaceful contrast to the mysterious, windswept shores of Lake Batur.

Summary

Trunyan Village is a living legacy of Bali's indigenous "Bali Aga" culture, aside from Tenganan village, preserved for centuries by its isolation on the shore of Lake Batur. Its traditions stand in stark contrast to the rest of Hindu Bali, most notably in its unique open-air burial ceremony where the dead are laid to rest under a fragrant "Taru Menyan" tree.

This practice is rooted in a myth about protecting the village from outsiders by masking its divine scent. A visit to Trunyan, detailed in any comprehensive travel guide to Bali, is a journey back to an ancient and profoundly different era. It offers a rare look into a culture shaped by animistic beliefs, volcanic landscapes, and a unique relationship with the cycle of life and death. To visit respectfully, one must stay in the nearby Kintamani region and travel by boat, preferably with a trusted local guide.